Chemical analysis of chitosan in cosmetics supporting quality control, new product development and regulatory compliance.

Chitosan in cosmetics is gaining popularity due to its versatile benefits. Chitosan skincare products are gaining attention for their potential to enhance skin hydration enhances moisture retention, promoting hydration and improving skin elasticity. It is a natural biopolymer of polysaccharide nature, its biocompatibility and biodegradability make it ideal for cosmetic, wound care and dermal filler applications. Chitosan benefits for skin include antimicrobial properties that help reduce acne and improve skin health and favorable application to wound-care and anti-inflammatory effects, making it suitable for sensitive and irritated skin. In dermal fillers, chitosan provides a natural, biocompatible scaffold that promotes tissue regeneration and smooths wrinkles, offering a natural and effective solution for aging skin concerns.

Chitosan is a linear polysaccharide consisting of glucosamine and N-acetyl glucosamine conventionally derived mainly from crustacean shells. The charged (cationic) nature of chitosan gives this polymer a mucoadhesive property. Chitosan salts have been explored as a matrix or scaffold material for tissue regeneration as well as in non-parenteral delivery systems for challenging drugs. Key chemical and physical parameters relevant for the functionality of chitosan across these applications is responsible for driving development of new commercial applications such as chitosan in skincare  or biomedical uses. Understanding the chemical nature and physical characteristics of chitosan is important to product development and assessment of quality and properties.

Chemical Characterisation of Chitosan

Chitosan Assay by Capillary Electrophoresis: Our scientists have developed a new assay method employing capillary electrophoresis can be used based on the overall electrical charge and physico-chemical properties of hyaluronic acid and chitosan. This approach offers a rapid (<5 min), reliable (R²>0.99; %CV and %RSD <10%) and specific (retention time, absorbance spectrum) approach to quantifying hyaluronic acid and chitosan in formulated products. 

Heavy metals: From our COFRAC accredited laboratory., we deliver rapid analysis services for trace heavy metals testing and elemental impurities analysis in all types of matrices using inductively coupled plasma with detection by mass spectrometry (ICP-MS). Our team can perform Heavy metal testing according to ISO standard ISO 21392: 2021 for measurement of chromium, cobalt, nickel, cadmium, lead, antimony or arsenic or other established industry methods

Cosmetic Allergens: Our scientists have developed a LC-MS/MS method using Multiple Reaction Monitoring (MRM) to accurately identify and quantify 57 potential allergens in cosmetics, offering efficient analysis that minimizes false positives and ensures accurate labeling for consumers.

Residual solvents: We provide expert residual solvent determination and identification, working to established industry methods such as USP <467>, and other regulatory standards. 

Proteins assay: Using colorimetric methods (Bradford method), we determine protein content, which can be important to understanding the presence of potential allergens.

Restricted and prohibited substance in Cosmetics: Our cosmetic testing experts offer cost-effective, specialized programs that include routine screening, quantification of prohibited substances, and method development using advanced analytical technologies. Services cover formaldehyde quantification, heavy metals analysis, fragrance allergen identification, phthalate detection, and nanoparticle testing to ensure regulatory compliance and product safety.

Bioburden and Endotoxin Determination: We conduct bacterial endotoxins testing to detect or quantify bacterial endotoxins of gram-negative bacterial origin as per the European Pharmacopeia 2.6.14 as part of our quality control suite of services. Our microbiology team also provide bioburden testing according to ISO 11731-1 to help clients evaluate sterilization processes, monitor control of raw materials, components and manufacturing processes.

Physical Properties of Chitosan Products  
For dermal filler products and composite dermal fillers containing HA and chitosan, evaluation of the physical properties of the chitosan is key. Properties such as the degree of deacetylation of chitosan, viscosity and molecular weight distribution, can impact dermal filler application success, performance and longevity. We use Gel permeation chromatography (GPC) for chitosan molecular weight determination and apply a range of rheology approaches and mechanical/physical test methods to help drive insight into physical properties. 

Bringing Quality and Safety to Life
With over 20 years of proven support for some of the largest and most innovative brands, Intertek is your ideal partner to provide quality assured data to innovators, manufacturers and suppliers to help them drive quality and safety and to understand and mitigate sources of product risk. Contact our team now to find out how our chitosan analysis expertise can bring value to your cosmetic product development and production.

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